01 February 2011

You're full of Bologna.

Bologna, Italy. 


Population: 375,000
Region: Capital city of Emilia-Romagna
Government - Mayor: 
   Anna Maria Cancellieri
Facts: 
- Home to the oldest university in Europe, The University of Bologna, found in 1088. 
- the Bologna Centrale Train station is considered the most important train hub in Italy due to its strategic location. It is also the largest station in Italy for tracks and traffic. 
Weather: 
   Sitting at about 0 degrees, clouds and excessive amounts of snow and rain. Expect the Slush-Storm to carry through the night. 

So it seems that shortly after my arrival in cloudy Bologna, a snow storm decides to plow through. Fortunately on a Sunday, when everything is closed anyways, but still. I hope this clears up for my tourist duties in the next couple days. 

This man is washing his car in the mess. He is not the only one, I don't understand.
Bologna is an interesting city, it has this different kind of unique edge to it compared to Florence or other cities I have been to in the last month. It's colourful and it's busy, and I think that has what it has become known for. Bologna's centro storico (old part) has these gorgeous bright orange and yellow buildings built in every which way. There are these huge archways and covered sidewalks. I am not sure what else to call them, but it certainly doesn't feel like a sidewalk. The walkways have these bright tiled sections of all different colours, and on the side adjacent to the street, there are these massive columns framing it all. Of course there is cobble everywhere, as we are in Europe, but the marble tile is definitely a nice change. The best part is the wild colours, you would never see buildings this bright and loud back home. 




In every city so far it has been easy to tell when you arrive at the 'old' centre. The streets are tiny, cars are rarely able to fit down the streets, and there is cobble everywhere, no asphalt. Often the centre is circled by a main road or a combination of them. Where tourists can easily access the area via public transportation, and where service vehicles can easily get in. The old area is always where the tourists are, by the massive church or tall tower thing... you can see the flashing Nikon's and Canon's from a kilometre away. I find these heard's can often be helpful in finding where the sites worth seeing are. 


I always have a map on me, it is usually the first thing I grab when I arrive in a city, and one of the things I carry with me at all times. But do I actually use it? Besides getting from the train station to the hostel where I can ditch my bag... no I don't. I have found this strange joy in wandering through these cities to see where I end up. I am not interested in wandering around with a 35lb bag on my back. 


The excitement of getting lost and finding your way is one thing, but you also find some things you wouldn't normally find when using a map. I know when I look at a map, I look for the most direct route, not always the most exciting. Bologna is pretty easy to get around, and cars are usually everywhere, but in Barcelona, it wasn't that easy. I think I mentioned this in a previous post, but Barcelona had streets going in every single direction, with some as narrow as 3ft. But if you tried to use a map going through there you would only find yourself frustrated and angry with the situation. In drifting in and out of the streets of Barcelona, I found everything from a huge church to tiny one-of-a-kind wedding shops and bakeries. I guess what I am trying to say is, yes- I waste a heck of a lot of time lost, but the truth is I never really am lost, I am merely.. exploring. 

never know what you're going to find...


Mmm Bologna. Home of Bolognese sauce. Which I have learned, is a meat-based pasta sauce with tomato. Yup, that's all.
I think traditionally there must have been more to it, but I guess today its just a tomato-meat pasta sauce. At the base of the 'Two Towers' yesterday I had the privilege of tasting a slice of 'Lasagna a Bolognese' at a teeny little restaurant with wicker chairs. It was fantastic, the pasta itself was the best part, along with the heap of cheese of course. 




This restaurant was hilarious. I walked in, and it was kind a bar-style, order and sit type situation, where I was then thoroughly greeted by all three staff members in unison. "BonjouRrrNOH!" I instantly loved this place. It was so casual, as if I was welcomed into a big Italian home for lunch. 


Gnocci I had the other day, with cherry tomato's provolone cheese and basil. I was telling M&D this, but the restaurant I ended up for this was, what I think, the Swiss Chalet or St. Huberts of Italy. Even so it was fantastic.
I ate so well in Bologna, free breakfast with my accommodation and some fantastic pasta dishes, I should really take a turn at some exercise. Thankfully it has been chilly here and the gelato stands I have been able to somewhat resist. 
With breakfast included it is always good incentive to get out of bed as well. Now, Europeans know how to have breakfast. I have been staying at a hotel in Bologna, due to lack of hostels and a desire for some good sleep, and they serve a little more than the usual bread and thick coffee at the hostels.


When I first took a glance at the breakfast buffet here, I can honestly say I had no idea what to do. There were trays and trays of sweets, cookies, cake and teeny croissants with icing sugar dusted all over them. And it wasn't until I saw the thin, tall redheaded lady eating a huge piece of chocolate cake that I realized it actually WAS the breakfast buffet. I managed to find some plain yogurt and canned peaches in the bunch, but it was most certainly paired with a chocolate croissant and a cappuccino. Nowhere would you find bacon or eggs, its almost unheard of. Even I can't do chocolate cake for breakfast... just chocolate croissants. 


I climbed the taller of the two, sorry, PAID to climb up it. 
97m high and 498 steps later, I caught an amazing view of the city, figured I had to work if I wanted gelato.
And with all these sweets for breakfast and pasta, I should really consider walking to the train station tomorrow. Too bad I already bought my bus ticket.


Tomorrow I am hopping on the fast train to Venice, or Veniza to meet up with a friend from back home and to do some good 'ol touristy things. 


View out the taller of the two towers.
Also, some more news, I am officially booked to fly to Malta for a week starting February 9th. Very excited about that one, and if anyone has some suggestions of what to do with my days down there feel free to send them out! I still have lots to plan for down there. 


Time to pack up! I tell you- I am getting really good at packing. Ciao! shannon xx

30 January 2011

White Beans and Renaissance Art.

Why is it that every Italian city is a "must-see" to Lonely Planet? According to 816 pages of full colour text, my guidebook believes I need to see every one of these cities.. I don't know about everyone else, but I am feeling overwhelmed, and find these recommendations a little unreasonable. :P

After narrowing down the list, and deciding on a much shorter Italian itinerary, I find myself touring through Florence, and Bologna so far, with Venice next on the list. This is where I will meet up with a friend, and former office-mate to tour through Venice and then to Rome. After Rome? TBD.
Ok, Italy officially wins for weirdo statues. Florence.
Fontana del Nettuno, Bologna.
Florence, or Firenze, an "essential stop in everyone's Italian itinerary", is known for holding the world's greatest collection of renaissance art, and of course David, an extremely famous sculpture because it was carved out of a single block of marble. (by Michelangelo, who finished it in 1504 when he was only 29! just.. by the way.) 
In my opinion, a busy, loud, gorgeous city with a ton of churches and piazzas... and renaissance art. I spent my days in Florence eating spaghetti and wandering through the tiny streets of this beautiful, cultural and artistic city. 



Even though 80% of the time I was lost, I refused to use a map. Florence is not a big city, and I should be able to find my way around. Unlike Barcelona, where some streets were a mere 3 ft wide and went in every which direction, Florence felt like it had some flow to it. Or I am just getting better at navigating, I don't know. At least I had a full river to base myself off of, I tried here in Bologna and found it to be a park. Not exactly helpful when you're looking for a river -as noted on the map. 


Directly translated, Fiume means River. 
The Uffizi Gallery, attracting some 1.5 million visitors a year, was full of Italian paintings and sculptures, including Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Michelangelo's Holy Family, for all you renaissance art junkies.  I bet they do alright with the people rolling through there, they don't even give student discounts. I was pretty bored after about an hour, to be blunt and honest. 


Palazzo Vecchio, Florence.
Cannellini, not to be confused with the delicious pasta cannelloni, is white beans. Yup, just.. white beans. Guess its some thing here in Florence. Served with breakfast, they looked...well gross. It is a form of Italian white kidney bean that is supposed to lower cholesterol, while be super tasty at the same time. I wish I could say I agreed with that, 100%.. but they were somewhat undesirable next to the mixed berry yogurt. I don't understand why this is a classic Tuscan dish, I mean really? You buy them in a can! Other than avoiding white beans, I ate an excess of spaghetti and gnocci in Florence, and couldn't be happier with my decisions. 


I didn't take this picture, but at least here they put it on bread with pepper, I guess thats some kind of improvement..
Trying to be more open minded in Bologna (pronounced like the sandwich meat, yes.) I will push to broaden my Italian food horizons a little beyond the Golden Arches next door. 


So far, I know that McDonald's has thoroughly invaded Italy and Europe, and that it is a classy place. I also know that when I chose to come to Italy, I was choosing where I wanted to eat. Simple, incredible food (minus the beans). Bologna means I need to have bolognese sauce, or ragu (which I think is just a tomato-ee meat sauce over pasta.. but TBD as well). Also, Bologna is known to be where classic pasta dishes like tortellini and lasagna were invented. Just a Fun Fact for the day! 




Looks like I have a lot of pasta ahead of me, and I am not complaining. Other than eating here in Bologna, I will probably wander through a few old streets to find some piazza's and churches too.


Arrivederci! shannon xx